State of Jefferson Scenic Byway
Route 96, 263: 108 miles. 2.5 hour drive time.
USDA Forest Service
Colorful settlement history, and a blend of narrow valleys, steeps forested mountains and the rugged Klamath River
The State of Jefferson Scenic Byway derives its name from an early 1940's movement to create the 49 th state. The original purpose of this movement was to draw attention to the need for good roads in far Northern California and Southern Oregon.
In 1941, locals blockaded Highway 96 and declared Jefferson to be its own state. Many believed that Jefferson would have become the 49th state in the Union had the bombing in Pearl Harbor not focused the nation on war in the Pacific.
The mighty Klamath River, called the “Clamet” by Native Americans, continues to shape the lifestyle and landscape of Northern California.
Tribal people fished for the plentiful salmon and mussels, and hunted deer. Today the Klamath River is popular for its scenic beauty, as well as its extensive recreational opportunities such as fishing and rafting.
The byway begins in the area of where Hwy. 96 meets Interstate 5 near Yreka. A section of highway that should not be missed is the current Hwy. 263 from Yreka to Hwy. 96. A series of five bridges, considered engineering marvels in 1929, created this section of road.
The section of the byway from the Interstate to Happy Camp has a rich gold mining history. Originally known for the rich placer claims, miners eventually sought out the gold veins and dug deep tunnels in the mountainsides along the river. At various times of this area's rich mining history, literally thousands of miners lived in the area from Klamath River to Happy Camp.
By 1920, the area became known for its fishing and boating opportunities, with President Herbert Hoover coming to fish the Klamath in 1933. The community of Klamath River also offers one of the most beautiful river setting golf courses in California.
Although Eagles Nest Golf Course is only 9 holes, it is extremely challenging and provides a great workout. The area from Horse Creek to Seaid Valley was also dramatically affected by the gold rush. Huge dredges chewed up hundreds of acres of the river riparian habitat.
The Seaid Valley has since been used for farming and ranching, and is now recognized as the northern most wine grape growing region in California. Here white Reisling grape vines actually grow through the dredger rock rubble.
Happy Camp, the half way point on the byway has a colorful history revolving around gold and copper mining, sawmills and logging, salmon and steelhead fishing, whitewater rafting and kayaking, as well as hunting and wild mushroom harvesting. The town is also the home to the Karuk tribe and serves as the major service community along the route.
At Happy Camp, the scenic byway leaves Hwy. 96 and climbs Grayback Mountain into Oregon. This 5,000 foot elevation route over Grayback offers numerous Forest Service roads leading to a variety of natural, historic, and recreation areas off the byway.
The route over Grayback could be considered a botanical tree tour. This eight mile ascent in elevation offers an opportunity to view the changing variety of tree species. A beautiful
overlook of the distant Marble Mountains with interpretive panels describing the resource management and history of the area can be seen from the summit of Grayback.
The byway now descends into Oregon and eventually ends at the Illinois River valley community of O'Brien. At this point a turn south on Hwy. 199 leads you back into California and onto the Smith River Scenic Byway.
Best Time to go: Year-round for the Hwy. 96 portion, with Grayback Summit being closed during the winter months.
Begin your tour from Yreka, CA
This guide assumes you are beginning your tour on Highway 263 north of Yreka, then traveling west down Highway 96.
Note:
North Main Street in Yreka turns into Highway 263. Highway 263 can also can be reached from I-5 at the Klamath River Highway 96 turnoff (Collier's Rest Area).
These routes will take you either to Redwood Highway 199 in Oregon, or Highway 299 leading to Redding or Eureka. The fork to O'Brien, Oregon is in Happy Camp.
Enjoy your visit
You are on Highway 263 which was old Highway 99, built in 1929. The original roadbed below along the Shasta River was originally constructed in 1914.
The five bridges along this route were built in the 1930s and are considered engineering marvels for their time period.
You are in the Klamath Mountains. Metamorphosed volcanic rocks and granite form this range which is closely related geologically to the Sierra Nevada Mountains.
The large flock of rock doves roosting under the bridge survives on the local scrub oak acorns.
For the adventurous, the old road below can be accessed via the dirt road just after crossing the Pioneer Bridge which is located one mile north of the Dry Gulch Bridge. Look for the large oak tree and rock monument. Vehicles with 4-wheel-drive are necessary for this two-mile excursion
Old Highway 99 Bridge at Mouth of Shasta River
2. Confluence of Shasta & Klamath Rivers:
Mile marker 56.9
The State of Jefferson slogan "bring your dynamite and shovels" is defined by walking across the highway and looking down at the boulders resting on the road below.
The private residence seen beyond the Klamath River bridge abutments was the Richie Store, gas station and restaurant prior to the construction of I-5.
The Klamath fluctuated six feet daily during the irrigation season (prior to Irongate Dam), bringing it within inches of the old bridge at 4 pm and causing hazardous conditions for fishermen.
The Shasta Tribe called the river Klamet. In Karuk language it is Ishkêesh. The Hudson Bay trappers called it Klamath.
Just downriver along Highway 96 you will view the first of many cone-shaped tailing piles formed by the miners. They used pivoting derricks to remove the rocks to get to the gold-bearing gravel below.
3. 1901 Ash Creek Bridge:
Mile marker 101.65
Hard rock miners followed gold veins by blasting tunnels on the other side of the river.
"The Dutzie" bootlegging still was located up the first ravine providing whisky to thirsty locals in the late 1800s.
Crossing this bridge affords access to the original stagecoach trail.
It wanders along the south side of the Klamath River all the way to Horse Creek, a distance of 28 miles.
(This side trip will take today's traveler about two hours with one outlet back to Highway 96 at Walker Bridge, midway.) This adventurous road should be driven with caution, being one lane in places and when wet, very slippery.
Going due west, annual rainfall increases nearly one inch per mile. The density of forest containing ponderosa pine, douglas fir, cedar, madrone and massive tan oak becomes greater as you travel further downriver
4. Tree of Heaven Campground:
Mile marker 99.0
In the 1800s, Chinese farmed the flat and sold vegetables to the miners and worked in the local mines. They imported a homeland tree called the Tree of Heaven to remind them of their native land.
Extensive trails exist at this Forest Service campground and wander through river riparian habitat (natural vegetation). Nature's diversity is described in a series of interpretive signs along the path.
This well-developed fee campground has 22 sites, potable water, hiking, swimming and river access.
West of this point is Humbug Creek drainage. It was extensively mined, and then dredged by "doodlebugs" (a floating mechanized rock and gold sorting machine fed by a scoop shovel). The old road travels up the canyon to Hawkinsville and Yreka.
The sparsely vegetated mountainside provides an excellent view of occasional golden eagles hunting for jackrabbits and ground squirrels.
The Shasta Tribe Rain Rock
The Shasta Indian Tribe occupied a vast area encompassing the upper reaches of the Salmon, Klamath, Scott, Shasta and McCloud Rivers. During the winter, women, elders and children occupied multiple-family houses while the hunters went into the surrounding mountains for venison.
Communal hunts made use of fires, "brush trail traps" and groups of people to drive deer into an ambush.
The men were skilled at throwing sticks to break the wings of geese that habitually passed over low mountain gaps. The Shastas also subsisted on dried fish, acorns and a bulb called apaw
Each spring new brush huts were fashioned near the mouths of creeks entering the rivers, creating numerous small villages. The men fished for salmon and hunted deer with obsidian-tipped arrows. The women and children dived for mussels and gathered berries during the summer. In August the second salmon run began, followed by acorn gathering.
The Shasta had a source of obsidian and curing salt for barter. Deer hides and venison were also traded with other tribes for dentalia (a tubular sea shell used for decoration and as a medium of exchange), as well as a variety of acorns, baskets and the occasional canoe.
The Tribe had a 4000-pound sacred boulder called the Rain Rock located at Gottville. It was deeply pocked by the hands of medicine men over past centuries, who buried the rock over 200 years ago to stop the rain and flooding. The rock was uncovered by a road-building crew in the 1930s and years later taken to the small museum in Fort Jones. Even non-Indians continue to call and request that the tribe cover the rock on special occasions to prevent rain
5. Skeahan Bar:
Mile marker 95.5
Mile Marker 54.6
· Originally named Virginia Bar, this was a mining claim worked by John Skeahan and Joe Davidson in the late 1800s. They were hard rock miners who dug deep tunnels in search of gold.
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· The first traffic access to the north side of the river was across the 1910 bridge, one mile east. The abutments remain, though the bridge was wiped out by a doodlebug dredge that broke loose at Humbug Creek during a flood.
Until 1966 when Iron Gate Dam was built approximately 20 miles upriver, pelicans actually fished this section of the river for steelhead and salmon.
On Sundays during the depression era, local teenagers speared salmon and sold them to onlookers for 25 cents to a dollar each.
6. Honolulu School and Gottville:
Mile marker 93.9
· In 1857, William Gott built a home and post office at the mouth of Lumgrey and Empire Creeks, establishing the town of Gottville to serve the growing population of miners in the area. At one time, some 3,000 people lived in this narrow canyon.
The school and a barn lay in the path of the new road being developed in the late 30's. They were torn down and a third Honolulu School was built below Lumgrey Creek which operated until the late 1960's when it became a private residence.
Betty Freshour was the postmistress at Gottville from 1929 to 1942 after which the post office was moved downriver to the site of the existing Klamath River Post Office. At that time, some wealthy property owners of the area greatly influenced the name change from Gottville to present day Klamath River
· Honolulu School was built in memory of the Kanakas, a group of Hawaiian miners, many of whom ventured into the area after a shipwreck on the coast. The first Honolulu School was built near Empire Creek in the late 1800s and burned down in 1912. A replacement was built shortly after.
Hotels, stores and saloons received supplies by pack train which had to cross the river on one of the five ferries in the area.
Mail was sent across the river in a basket via cable. Children attending school also rode across three at a time when high water prevented them from using their boats.
7. Klamath River:
Mile marker 87.7
Services: Groceries, deli, post office, lodging, RV parks, golf course and guide service
In the late 1800s, Siskiyou Quicksilver Mining Co. extracted mercury from the cinnabar located up Beaver Creek. Tunnels were dug following gold veins and later used as storerooms for bootleg whiskey.
In the 1890s, Job Garretson patented the same ground and built a two-story hotel and resort. The hotel and heated medicinal baths attracted the wealthy to the area.
It was claimed that drinking and soaking over a period of two months in the stinky water cured blood diseases. The water also was marketed commercially. Croquet and horseshoe pits were sporting diversions for guests.
Bill Quigley built a home and ran a ferry on the south side of the river. Willis "Moon" Quigley had a home and post office substation on the north side in the late 1800's. Moon got his nickname by delivering "moonshine" whiskey.
Bill Quigley's home was later purchased and transformed into a private summer home complete with exquisite gardens and Japanese servants to cater to the owners.
The Crocker family, famous in California for their banking and railroad empires, bought H. R. Barton's hotel at Oak Bar, turning it into a personal estate in 1926.
The community of Klamath River is about 11 miles long and includes both sides of the river.
The population is sparse at 190 and covers the whole area from Gottville to Kohl Creek.
8. Brown Bear:
Mile marker 77
Across the river behind the willow lined banks, you can see the Klamath River School. This expansive meadow was the Campbell Ranch. The Campbell brothers provided fresh horses for the stagecoaches that traveled through in the early 1920's.
The numerous elementary schools from Ash Creek to Scott Bar were consolidated in 1960, resulting in the Klamath River School District.
In the early days before bussing, children attending high school had to board or move to Yreka.
This nice river access was built with slide materials in cooperation with CalTrans and is a launching spot for kayaks and raft.
9. Horse Creek:
Mile marker 76.2
The origin of Horse Creek comes from a story told by Sergeant Sambo, a legendary Shasta Indian, whose uncle had a horse attacked by a mountain lion, hence the name.
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Chester Barton established Horse Creek Camp, where he built a small store and cabins for sportsmen east of the footbridge. In 1901, a new wooden bridge replaced the cable bridge
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The store was destroyed by an arson fire in 1994.
Sergeant Sambo was a versatile character. He accomplished tasks that the local farmers were unable or unwilling to do. From doing laundry to training horses, to tracking and herding stray cattle in the rough terrain, this unique individual was also famous for his corn squeezins'.
A little gulch across the river produced cinnabar for an old Chinese elder in the 1850's. Every two years he took it to China where it was prized for medicinal purposes
Robert Rainey homesteaded Horse Creek to raise cattle in 1890. At the same time, a large sawmill was in full operation, supplying the whole area with lumber. Rainey allowed the fertile fields across the river to be extensively dredged in 1938 under the condition that they be restored to farmland.
10. Scott River:
Mile marker 71.3
The Scott River was originally known by trappers as Beaver River. It drains from the Scott Valley, transporting gold from Quartz Hill into the Klamath.
They used massive water wheel pumps to drain the area, giving access to
The raging waters of winter over consecutive years destroyed all their efforts causing them to rebuild the following season.
11. Hamburg at Sarah Totten Campground:
Mile marker 70.0
Services: Store, bed & breakfast, campground
Hamburg was named in 1851 by Sigmond Simon, a German miner who prospered in the mercantile business at Scott Bar. Hamburg boasted a population of 5000 around 1880. With 1,500 voters, it was the largest precinct in the county. This precinct included Johnson's Bar, French Bar and Scott Bar.
Sarah owned property where the campground is located. She donated the land to the Forest Service on the condition they use it as a recreation area.
12. Seiad Valley at Old Man's Pool:
Mile marker 59.4
Services: Store, cafe, fuel cardlock (with credit card), guide service, RV Park and post office.
Seiad is a Yurok Tribal word meaning "far away land." In the Karuk language it is Sáamay.
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River otters can be seen in this pool quite often.
Those inclined can walk up a short distance for a stunning view
To the east is a bald eagle sanctuary. Along the river is a great blue heron rookery, and to the west is a pair of osprey nests
The view exemplifies river riparian habitat which is nature's way of restoring the tailing piles. This is where numerous species of migratory songbirds gather before venturing into or out of the forest
Daniel Cook and William Green came to this valley to trap for the Hudson Bay Company. They were accompanied by the Reeves Brothers who homesteaded and farmed 480 acres, supplying vegetables for the local miners in the mid-1800's
In 1885, William Grider homesteaded the south portion of the valley where he farmed, operated a hydraulic mine, and ran a ferry and stage stop. From his converted sheep barn, the stage climbed the 4,000 foot Evans Mountain to the southwest and then down to Happy Camp
In 1940, a bucket lined gold dredge reshaped 300 acres of river and fertile fields to extract the gold. This dredge rotated 70 buckets on an endless chain, each bucket weighing 3,000 pounds
13. Bittenbender Slide/Portuguese Creek:
Mile marker 57.3
This slide area allows close examination of the geology of an elevated ancient river channel resting on bedrock. Look at the contrast of solid bedrock with the crumbling, bare area upriver. During wet years the fractured rocks and soils are known to slide abruptly down the slippery blue shist slope.
Hoskins Bar mine, across from the mouth of Portuguese Creek, was also operated by Chinese. During the flood of 1890, a land and snowslide carried a house into the river with three Chinese miners inside.
Above the highway is a good area to explore geology. The natural process and compaction that formed the soils created a cemented material that combined river cobbles with gravel. This formation is a likely spot to find gold.
The Chinese attacked this type of deposit using a water nozzle fed by pipes fashioned out of pigskin hides that were sewn together. Later goldseekers used mules to pack in 2500 feet of 14-inch steel miner's pipe that ran three hydraulic giants (large water nozzles).
The present-day stark absence of plants is the result of the 1997 flood. An explosion of creek runoff ripped timber from the mountains, creating a gigantic impassable barrier on the highway in this and other locations where creeks flow under the highway.
This flood prevented access and supplies from reaching the many residents from Horse Creek to Orleans, over 70 miles away.
Portuguese Creek river access is an excellent launch site for boats, kayaks and rafts.
14. Fort Goff:
Mile marker 56.0
Services: Campground
Goff was named by miner John Goff in 1851. A temporary military encampment caused the attachment of "Fort" to the name in the 1860s by soldiers on their way to the Rogue Valley Indian Wars.
15. Savage Rapids:
Mile marker 55.0
Below the rapids, easy river access can be found for swimming in slow moving water. Snorklers can explore the bedrock which is beaten smooth by swift winter currents pushing an endless flow of tumbling rocks.
This pounding of the quartz veins releases trapped gold.
Thompson Creek:
Mile marker 52.5
Services: Lodging, Real Estate Office
Downriver, near Thompson Creek, was a mining settlement called Nolton.
The town boasted a store, post office and boarding house in the late 1800s.
All of them came running into camp, terrified after sighting a huge hairy man digging in the ground and eating roots. They were so frightened they refused to go back to work. Their shock and fear added truth to the story.
Shinar were working the Minetta Bee mine across the river. Heavy rains caused their boat to wash away, stranding them for about 10 days during the flood of 1890. Their mother, Elizabeth Shinar, and Sister Mary Ann, used bow and arrows to shoot food across the river in order for the men to survive.
16. Richardson Bedrock Mine/Reeves Ranch/Ish Kaysh Indian Lands:
Mile marker 43.2
The entire area across the river was known as the Richardson Bedrock Mine, an extensively mined area and money-maker for its many owners. Water was brought out of Elk Creek through five miles of wooden flume to supply the hydraulic water giants.
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This is a prime spot to observe osprey hunting fish and red tail hawks chasing ground squirrels
In 1859 Joseph Reeve moved to Happy Camp from Seiad Valley to continue his farming and mining. The Reeve Ranch was a very large piece of property extending to Happy Camp.
Utilizing Chinese workers, the Ranch grew hay for livestock and fresh produce for the local population. Irrigation water was brought to the ranch by flume from Keystone Dam, fed by Indian Creek.
The Karuk Tribe purchased the land across the river and plans to use it for various agricultural purposes and youth activities
Happy Camp is located in the heart of the Karuk Tribe's Ancestral Territory, which extends along the Klamath River from Bluff Creek (near the community of Orleans in Humboldt County) through Siskiyou County and into southern Oregon.
Since time immemorial the Karuk, whose name means "upriver people," have resided in small villages along the Klamath River, where they continue such cultural traditions as hunting, gathering, fishing, basket making and ceremonial dances.
The Brush Dance, Jump Dance and Pikyavish ceremonies last for several days and are practiced to heal and "fix the world," to pray for plentiful acorns, deer and salmon, and to restore social good will as well as individual good luck.
As a government organization, the Karuk Tribe of California has demonstrated its ability to administer a multitude of social, cultural and economic programs effectively, earning the status of a "self-governance Tribe."
The Tribal government currently employs more than 100 people in administrative, child welfare, community/economic development, education, elders, energy assistance, health, housing, human services and natural resources programs.
In little more than a decade the Karuk Tribe has developed housing divisions, health clinics and Head Start programs in Orleans, Happy Camp and Yreka, its three major population centers.
Through the Tribally-chartered Karuk Community Development Corporation, the Karuk Tribe also has administered salmon fisheries enhancement projects.
Indian Creek Road
At least 20 Forest Service roads leave the Scenic Byway off Indian Creek Road.
These roads offer access to a variety of natural, historic and recreational areas.
Check with the Forest Service or local merchants for current road information.
Tests are also conducted on mycorrhizal (fungus) associations, insect studies and control and a variety of other factors that could impact the health of our forests.
Visitors should continue past the first gated entrance and turn left at the second road
South Fork of Indian Creek Road. #17N32:
Mile marker 7.0
South Fork was the source of water for the Davis/Van Brunt hydraulic mine in Happy Camp, 12 "ditch" miles away.
The fish were fed, monitored and raised to almost a sixth of a pound in weight then released into Indian Creek the end of the hatchery season in fall.
19. Indian Town:
Mile marker 10.4
Coon Run:
Mile marker 10.8
Established in 1853, Indian Town later boasted 450 people while Happy Camp claimed only 100. Imagine the two story hotel, butcher shop, bakery, grocery store, school, bowling alley, blacksmith shop, and numerous hardrock mines surrounding the town.
Indian Town originated due to the abundant gold deposits and the nearby Waldo Trail.
This supply route was a main mule pack trail to and from Crescent City.
Directly below the Classic Hill was a profitable Chinese-owned mine. The men worked for years digging a tunnel deep into the mountain until there was a massive cave-in and many were buried. Being a superstitious bunch, most of the locals refused to mine the area again, bringing an end to Indian Town.
These cement structures are for Steelhead, Coho and Chinook salmon rearing. The side channel is used as a safe haven to protect the eggs and gravel from fast flood waters. This area is part of a riparian reserve
Grayback Road
Grayback Road offers a unique opportunity to view a changing variety of tree species as you climb in elevation. Just after crossing the bridge at Indian Creek, set your odometer to zero, or watch for mile markers on this tour AND for the remaining sites up Grayback Road.
Drive very carefully while searching for species
Grayback Botanical Tree Tour:
Miles start at 0 (at bridge over Indian Creek 11 miles north of Happy Camp
0.2 - Jeffrey Pine, Incense Cedar and fragrant California Laurel are prominent.
1.8 - The large California Madrone is noted for its smooth red bark and shiny green leaves.
2.0 - Sugar Pine has the largest cones of any pine in the world and can be seen below the road.
2.1 - Port Orford Cedar has characteristic weeping foliage and is visible near the water on both sides of the road.
2.3 - Ponderosa Pine has distinct contrasting dark brown and tan bark.
3.4 - Three Incense Cedars are below the road and have stringy red-colored bark.
4. - Look uphill for the twenty-foot-tall Pacific Yew with reddish green needles between the Cedar and Fir trees.
6.1 - The Brewers Spruce is unique to the area and is identifiable by it weeping foliage. In this location, several of these beautiful trees surround a large Sugar Pine.
7.3 - Notice the huge Douglas Fir that is dramatically leaning to one side. The base of this tree is at least 65 inches wide.
7.8 - White Fir with its fernlike foliage and Brewer Spruce dominate this area.
20. West Branch Campground:
Mile marker 1.0 (after bridge)
After the Depression, the campground began as a CCC camp for crews who built the road over Grayback Mountain as part of a public works program to employ people. Later it evolved as a visitors' campground and fireguard station for large fire crews.
About a mile north is FS Road 18N33 that leads to Poker Flat. In the 1800s, this huge meadow was a resting area for pack trains using the Waldo Trail. Ranchers from the Rogue Valley drove cows and hogs to this site to sell to the mining camps of Indian Town and Happy Camp.
While the animals grazed, the men used a large flat rock below the meadow as a table, where they played poker to pass the time... hence the name.
21. Grayback Overlook
Mile marker 7.7
The overlook provides a panoramic view of Indian Creek drainage with a magnificent vista of the Marble Mountain Wilderness.
22. Grayback Summit:
Mile marker 8.9 California/Oregon Border: Mile marker 9.9
Enjoy fantastic views of the extensive forest at this 5,000 foot elevation. From here you can discover three snow-fed lakes located west of the Red Butte Wilderness.
Oregon fishing license required.) In 1853 "pioneer" Herman Reinhart had a bowling alley and bakery that served the miners near what he called Bowling (now Bolan) Creek, fed from Bowling (Bolan) Lake
This concludes our tour along the State of Jefferson Scenic Byway. You may continue to drive on to Highway 199 in Oregon without this guide, or return to Happy Camp and travel down the Klamath River on Highway 96 along the Bigfoot Scenic Byway through Orleans to Highway 299 and Eureka or Redding.
